Abstract: Shanxi embroidery, that is, Shanxi folk embroidery, is usually divided by the name of the region. Fanzhi embroidery, Heshun pull embroidery, Houma embroidery, shangdangdui embroidery, Lu embroidery and Gaoping embroidery are the outstanding representatives of Shanxi embroidery. Jin embroidery is one of the 24 kinds of embroidery in China, with its rigorous and dense embroidery method, magnificent composition and rich colors. Jiangnan University's folk dress workshop is the only one in China to collect and study the Han's folk dress. There are 275 Shanxi clothing accessories in the museum since modern times. In this paper, 204 Modern Shanxi Shanxi embroidery clothing accessories collected by Jiangnan University's folk costume workshop are taken as the object of physical research. Combined with literature research and local historical folk customs in Shanxi, the artistic characteristics of Modern Shanxi folk Shanxi embroidery patterns are discussed.
Research background
Shanxi embroidery, that is, Shanxi folk embroidery, is usually divided by the regional name. Fanzhi embroidery in the north of Shanxi, Heshun embroidery in the middle of Shanxi, Houma embroidery in the south of Shanxi, shangdangdui embroidery, Lu embroidery and Gaoping embroidery in the southeast of Shanxi are all outstanding representatives of Shanxi embroidery. Jin embroidery is one of the 24 kinds of embroidery in China, with its rigorous and dense embroidery method, magnificent composition and rich colors. Jiangnan University's folk dress workshop is the only one in China to collect and study the Han's folk dress. There are 275 Shanxi clothing accessories in the museum since modern times. In this paper, 204 Modern Shanxi Shanxi embroidery clothing accessories collected by Jiangnan University's folk costume workshop are taken as the object of physical research. Combined with literature research and local historical folk customs in Shanxi, the artistic characteristics of Modern Shanxi folk Shanxi embroidery patterns are discussed.
The origin of Jin embroidery
It is often said that "the Chinese civilization looks at Shanxi". Huang Pumi, a famous scholar in the Western Jin Dynasty, wrote in the Emperor Century: "the Yao capital is Pingyang, the Shun capital is Puban, and the Yu capital is Anyi." It shows that the capital cities of the three dynasties before the Xia Dynasty were built in Linfen, Yongji and Yuncheng respectively, which proves that Shanxi is one of the birthplaces of Chinese civilization. After thousands of years of historical accumulation, Shanxi folk culture, born in the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River, is known as the "ancient Oriental Art Museum" for its profound cultural heritage and unique artistic style.
Shanxi folk embroidery, though not more famous than "Suzhou embroidery", "Hunan embroidery", "Shu embroidery" and "Yue embroidery", has a very long history. It can even be traced back to the cocoon split by half a man in the Yangshao cultural site of Xiyin village five thousand years ago. Xiyin village is the hometown of Lei Zu, the God of sericulture, so it is also considered as the birthplace of silk in the world [1]. Lei Zu, the wife of the Yellow Emperor, planted mulberry and raised silkworms, and made silk clothes, which made embroidery prosperous and developed in later generations. During the spring and Autumn period from 1033 BC to 376 BC, Jin state was established, and its capital was Quwo (now Wenxi in Shanxi), Jiang (Yicheng in Shanxi) and Xintian (Houma in Shanxi). Therefore, Shanxi folk embroidery art was called "Jin embroidery" [2]. In the song "book of songs, Tangfeng and yangzhishui", a Han folk song of Jin Dynasty in the pre Qin period, it recorded that "Zhu Chen in plain clothes, from son to Wo" and "Zhu Xiu in plain clothes, from son to Hu" truly depicted the scene of soldiers wearing plain clothes with red embroidered Wen collar, showing the embroidery art of Quwo County, Shanxi Province. In the Warring States period, Shanxi was divided into three kingdoms, namely, Zhao, Wei, and Han. In the historical records, the biography of Su and Qin Dynasties, there is a record of the king of Zhao "rich and pure, and he made an appointment with the princes", which is enough to prove that at that time, Jin embroidery was extremely prosperous [3]. Until the rise of Shanxi Merchants in Ming and Qing Dynasties, it injected new connotation into Shanxi folk embroidery and pushed the development of Shanxi embroidery to a high point. Many works still exist in Japanese and British Museums.
Shanxi's unique geographical and cultural environment makes the patterns of Shanxi embroidery folk, religious and distinctive. Because there is no special management organization like Jiangning weaving Bureau in Shanxi Province in history, and the transmission mode of Shanxi embroidery is mainly mother daughter transmission and neighborhood mutual learning, the embroidery in Shanxi area has been less affected by commercial behavior. The content of the design usually shows the local folk customs or people's exaggerated and bold happiness, anger, sorrow and joy. It is generally used for giving each other relatives and friends or children the full moon, weddings, birthday gifts, ancestor sacrifice and other occasions. Located in Wutai Mountain, Yungang Grottoes and other Buddhist holy places in the north of Shanxi Province, the famous Taoist View of Yongle Palace in the south makes the patterns of Jin embroidery deeply influenced by religious ideas. Many embroiderers will add elements such as fortune, longevity, three stars and auspicious patterns to the overall patterns to express their prayers for a better life.
Shanxi is adjacent to Taihang Mountain in the East and Luliang Mountain in the West. The Yellow River is the cutting in the southwest. The closed geographical environment of the outer river and the inner mountain makes the population mobility of Shanxi small and the social communication small. With a long history and strong religious atmosphere, Jinxiu is not only rich in nourishment, but also tightly closed. It is less influenced by other regional cultures and styles, and has distinct regional characteristics. Until modern times, Jin embroidery has not been appreciated by scholars and nobles, and it is still only inherited and developed among the working people. Therefore, Shanxi folk embroidery, which is endowed with rich life connotation by the public, has retained its own artistic characteristics such as full composition, rich themes and gorgeous colors, and is the treasure of Shanxi folk art.
The distribution of Shanxi embroidery patterns in Modern Shanxi folk clothing accessories
Shanxi embroidery is widely used in Modern Shanxi folk clothes and ornaments. Hardworking and intelligent Shanxi women skillfully integrate their thoughts on social life into their embroidery works, and show and wear them through the patterns of Shanxi embroidery, which has a very high aesthetic value in contemporary art. The organizational form of patterns is determined by the content and use of patterns [4]. The organizational form of embroidery patterns in Jin embroidery clothing ornaments is not only limited to specific patterns of repeated imitation, but also to meet the unique patterns of clothing ornaments, so that their shapes and patterns will be created with artistic changes.
2.1 organizational form
The organizational forms of Jin embroidery patterns are mainly divided into four types: single pattern, suitable pattern, continuous pattern and comprehensive pattern. As the most basic form of Jin embroidery pattern, individual pattern is a complete and independent individual, not limited by its outline. Jin embroidery artists usually regard it as a single decoration, or use it freely as a unit pattern suitable for pattern and continuous pattern. Due to the particularity of its nature, the individual pattern is generally applied to small clothing and ornaments such as eyebrow, shoes, etc., which is simple and flexible (Fig. 1, Fig. 2).
Fig. 1 modern folk jinhydrangea
Fig.1 Headband with modern folk fish pattern made by Shanxi embroidery
Fig. 2 jin embroidery's single fish pattern
Fig.2 Single fish pattern made by Shanxi embroidery
Suitable pattern is to organize patterns in a specific shape, and patterns have obvious external characteristics suitable for the shape. A variety of geometric figures such as circle, triangle and fan, or natural bodies such as animals and plants, can be used as the external frame to limit the suitable patterns of Jin embroidery. From the perspective of the application of organizational types, the suitable patterns in Jin embroidery can be generally divided into three forms: filling pattern, corner pattern and edge pattern. Among them, corner pattern is most favored by Jin embroidery clothing accessories. Corner pattern, also known as corner flower, refers to the decorative pattern suitable for the shape with corner and used in the corner part [5]. It appears most in the representative belly pocket of Jin embroidery clothing accessories. It is often embroidered on the corner of the square belly pocket to highlight its unique shape and express specific connotation.
The continuous pattern is a kind of two or four square continuous pattern, which is composed of two or four directions of the unit pattern according to a certain rule. The most important feature of this form of organization lies in the continuity of the pattern. The changes of the virtual and the real, which are sparse and dense, have created the delicate, delicate and colorful visual effects of modern Shanxi folk embroidery clothing accessories. The continuous pattern in Jin embroidery is widely used in the outer edge of clothing ornaments or the edge of structural line because of its extensibility in expression. It can not only be used as decorative pattern to enhance its formal beauty, but also to highlight the function of clothing ornament structure.
Comprehensive pattern is a creative combination of any two or more forms of single pattern, suitable pattern and continuous pattern to form a relatively independent pattern. The comprehensive patterns in Jin embroidery are mostly created around the theme. The creator unifies various themes with specific forms of expression to form a complete and rich composition. Because of the free and various design techniques and the rich and complex expression techniques, the comprehensive pattern is usually used in the main position of large clothing and ornaments, which is the most used organization form by Jin embroidery artists.
2.2 distribution location
The distribution of embroidery patterns in different regions is affected by the local customs in different regions. Shanxi people's character is rough and bold, so in the layout, Jin embroidery patterns go out of the limitations of traditional embroidery with patterns as embellishment, full composition, mostly in the center of clothing accessories or in the way of tiling the whole work. The distribution of Jin embroidery patterns is also affected by the structure of the ornaments they decorate. Taking Jinxiu waistband as an example, the main pattern of Jinxiu is distributed in the convex part in the middle of the waistband, and some waistbands are also embroidered with small patterns on both sides. Continuous patterns are used to decorate the edge of the convex structure of the waistband to highlight its special shape (Figure 3, figure 4).
Figure 3 modern folk Jin embroidery waistband
Fig.3 Waist pocket made by Shanxi modern folk embroidery
Figure 4 the pattern distribution of Jinxiu waistband
Fig.4 Structure of loincloth made by Shanxi modern folk embroidery
The theme of Shanxi embroidery pattern in Modern Shanxi folk costume
Shanxi embroidery clothing accessories are indispensable in Shanxi folk seasons, weddings and funerals, almost throughout the whole life of Shanxi people. Due to Shanxi's long-term closed geographical environment, Shanxi embroidery clothing accessories are generally not traded, lack of commercial marks, and not appreciated by the court and scholars, most of the themes of the works come from nature and life. Therefore, the patterns of Shanxi folk Jinxiu clothing ornaments are various and widely used. Shanxi people express their expectation of reproduction, pursuit of happy life and worship of natural gods through different patterns. The author found in the arrangement of 204 pieces of clothing ornaments with Jinxiu pattern in the folk clothing workshop of Jiangnan University, such as belly pocket, purse, hat, eyebrow, warm ear, warm sleeve, waistband, bib, cloud shoulder, shoes, etc., that Jinxiu pattern themes in Shanxi folk clothing ornaments can be divided into the following five categories for research, namely animal pattern, plant pattern, geometric pattern pattern, text map Case and character design (Table 1).
Table 1 Statistics of the number of patterns of Jin embroidery clothing and accessories in Jiangnan University
Tab.1 Pattern classification count table of Shanxi modern folk embroidery pattern of clothing and accessories in Folk Costumes Museum of Jiangnan University
3.1 plant theme
Plant pattern is the most common pattern type in Shanxi folk embroidery clothing accessories. According to statistics, the number of plant patterns in Shanxi embroidery clothing accessories in the folk modern workshop of Jiangnan University accounts for 80% of the total. Almost all of the plants are in the form of flowers, most of which are lotus and peony. The lotus pattern was first introduced by Buddhism from ancient India, and was metaphorically referred to as the female reproductive organ in Shanxi Province. And lotus